Building/ upgrading a boat for EC2013

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Building/ upgrading a boat for EC2013

(33 posts) (20 voices)

Started 8 years ago by JollyRoger
Latest reply from Badger

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JollyRoger
Member

There was talk of folks getting pulled away from the Derby because of building or upgrading a boat so here is your chance to let us know what you are up to.

I got a couple of pictures of a new Project last week and It looks very interesting. Teak, is your project still classified?

Stripbuilder has to be up to something and I think maybe TwinSprit may be as well. Scareman still has a TBD so not sure if he is building or refiting. SewSew has modified his to be faster so can't wait to check that out.

I am building a modifed Angus expedition rowboat.I am glassing the hull this week and hope to be finished and ready for testing by early Jan.

I see alot of interesting boats on the list. I hope that some folks share what they are up to. Oh, and are you going to be ready in time? It was great last year watching SOS and SandyBottom scramble to finish theirs last minute, and what a test and accomplishment that was.

JollyRoger

Posted 8 years ago #
LeatherLungs
Member

JollyRoger wrote:

I am building a modifed Angus expedition rowboat.

JR,

Those are very interesting boats. Does it appear you could add a sail rig or is it absolutely row only?

Thanks,

LL

Posted 8 years ago #
DaveOnCudjoe
Member

I'm sad to say that Maggie and I will be absent yet again due to delays in her modifications. The capsize in 2010 was due in no small part to little sailing time prior to the race. In challenging conditions you may need to react quickly and decisively and that only comes from time in the saddle. Good luck to all. Dave

Posted 8 years ago #
JollyRoger
Member

LL,

I guess I should have said highly modified. It will have a sail. Easiest way to describe it is to say -think Hobie Tandum Island. Take the hull away and build a expedition rowboat hull 6% larger and add aprox. 6 inches of freeboard to the topside. (now 19' instead of 18') Then remove the TI hard amas and add Chief's Big Classic 16 inflatable amas. (Only 11 lbs!) Keep one pedal drive in the rear seat or row seat so that you can pedal or row or paddle. The front seat can be used for storage if going solo and covered. To row I may have to fold the amas either back or forward but I will have to see when finished how that is going to work out clearing them. The TI is 195 lbs so I hope that with the ply hull being heavier and saving some weight with the amas that it should come out around 225 or less. I have all parts on hand now so the sooner finishing the more testing/changing I can do. And I do have my NCC2012 Tri that I can take if it turns out not to work as well as hoped. Are you keeping yours the same? Seems to be working great!

JR

Posted 8 years ago #
LeatherLungs
Member

sounds like an awesome boat!

I'm not sure yet, but I might increase my sail area and add built-in floatation tanks which could double as dry storage. Both would require some work, but not as extensive as what you're doing!

LL

Posted 8 years ago #
BeastOarman
Member

I am experimenting with a prototype "sliding rigger". They were outlawed in the early 80's by FISA for traditional rowing competitions because they are markedly more efficient - which to me sounds perfect for an EC! Fundamentally your body weight stays in one place, making the boat glide smoother, without the hobby horse effect. Lots of issues to work through, of course. My guess is I'm 85% right now, up from totally unusable in early November.

BeastOarMan

Posted 8 years ago #
LeatherLungs
Member

BeastOarman wrote:

I am experimenting with a prototype "sliding rigger". They were outlawed in the early 80's

If it means you'll pass me during the EC, I think Chief should outlaw them now, too!

Just kidding, of course. I love this kind of stuff . . .

LL

Posted 8 years ago #
CaptShallowwater
Member

JollyRoger Last year modified an O'Day Javelin for 6 week cruise Palm Beach to Key West. Cut it down from 14 ft to 13 ft to fit 0n dingy dock at KW. Had to reshape bottom to bring the new position back close to the original transome size. The free Javelin had no rig so used rig from a 12 ft ply dink I had built as tender to my bigger boat.Two years ago I sailed that dink Miami to KW to Fort Myers on a five week cruise. Wife said no new boats for the EC so have radically sliced and diced the jav . A lot can go Wrong but a lot can go Right! Test sail yesterday in very lite wind. Went well mostly faster than I can row. Yippee! Now tons more modifications and I might be ready.

Capt Shallowwater

Posted 8 years ago #
stripbuilder
Member

Right now I'm making some paddles and changing/upgrading a kayak I already have. However, there are a few boats that I'd like to build soon.

Posted 8 years ago #
CleanSlate
Member

I'm experimenting with swapping out my sliding rudder-steering peddles with the smartTrack toe steering fixed peddles to give me better bracing for paddling my Triak. I'm keeping the original rudder, though because the smartTrack rudder will be too small to sail with. I'll try it out around the new year and then make the decision of whether to stick with the smartTrack system or go back to the stock rudder peddle searing system.

Posted 8 years ago #
kayakman7
Member

I've been working on the tamanu; added a mirage drive, LED nav lights, some foam floatation, shafts for the rudder and daggerboard, lift systems for the rudder and daggerboard, and a roller furling mechicanism. Next week I'm coating the bottom in graphite impregnated expoxy and setting up the rigging.

pics here: http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.4312017636342.178189.1163927288&type=1&l=7e0783dab5

j

Posted 8 years ago #
Rowcat
Member

I am just starting my new boat building shed, so I haven't started my build. But, my plans will be a 24 ft by 24 inch high boat with 1 rowing station and 1 high end pedal drive, with a 2 bladed prop driven from a recumbent seat, plus a roller fullerling main sail and amas , probably offset going off the back of the boat, so as not to be in the way of the rowing oars sweep. I will call it "Triple Threat "

Posted 8 years ago #
ThisTripIsNecessary
Member

I'm glad to hear the Angus rowboat is going to be tried -- it seemed great for an EC when I first saw it -- but the outriggers aren't over-kill on a boat designed for rowing? Windage? (the inflatables are light, but the wind doesn't care). Did I misunderstand -- are you going to sail this too? -- Wade

Posted 8 years ago #
JollyRoger
Member

Wade, this Angus rowboat is being built with the UFC in mind so the aka's, and big 16 ama'swill fit under deck when needed. It was designed for rowing but I am hoping that it will sail well like LL's and Ridgerunners boats that are designed for rowing. Mine will have the TI rig, carbon mast and 90 sf sail so the watertribe floats should not be overkill. TI's have a tendancy to bury the ama's in heavy weather. I tried the big 16 on my TI and they helped since they have more boyancy than the stock one's. Since I am using everything Hobie, mast, sail, aka's, rudder and my boat is 19'-Hobies is 18'6" and things are pretty much in the same place then I hope that I am in the ball park. Should know in about a month.

Everything mentioned sounds very interesting, alot of different ideas and boats. That is what is great about showing up on the beach in march and seeing all the people and boats. Just hate to hear that Dave will not be making it.

roger

Posted 8 years ago #
teak
Member

My tri is 21 foot. and I built my amas from 3mil ply,16 ft long, about 300 pounds of buoyancy, start glassing the bottom this week but lots to do on top. I thought I had sail plan ready to go but now I am up in the air. hobie mast and sail but want more sail area, may be 2 masts like core sound, maybe a twin balanced lug rig? One problem is were I can put rig, 21 ft boat the seats and drive holes are need to be were they are because of balance and bulkheads, I may also have to go with leeboards,witch I guess is ok, for safety and ease of taking mast down it will only be 18 ft , hense having two to get the 150 + sail area that I want.

Posted 8 years ago #
DogsLife
Member

Only advice I can give to all the budding builders is allow for plenty time on the water to get use to your boat and get the bugs out. Run your boat into the worst weather conditions. Better to break something before the race than to be off the Everglades literally withot a paddle...good luck to everyone...

Posted 8 years ago #
lugnut
Member

Dave: Sorry to hear you and Maggie won't be in the EC. Will we see you at the start, fi ish or any of the CPs?

Teak: You should be able to set efficient sprit sails, like a Core Sound, on 18 foot masts and get 150 sq. feet of sail. Oaracle has a 17 foot mast which sets a 114 sq. foot balanced lug. That might be a deciding factor. You can get by with lower masts with balanced lugs but you will do a bit better on the wind with the sprits and taller spars.

Looking forward to seeing all of these innovative boats on the beach in March.

Lugnut

Posted 8 years ago #
ThisTripIsNecessary
Member

OK Jollyroger, sounds interesting. I do remember talking about adding a sail to the Angus rowboat when we were discussing it on the Wooden Boat forum. Of course as a sailor I imagine putting a sail on most everything :-) and even though I was proposing just a little something for a broadreach to a run, as I have seen done well on EC kayaks, my proposal was not greeted with delight. I however look forward with delight to your experiment -- I suppose the amas will be no worse than amas on a Sea Pearl, and some people have liked that (even if I say, save a trimaran for a skinny hull). I still have my big 16 foot Watertribe inflatables from my 2011 EC try, though now I am using only one as a safety ama on my single-outrigger boat, and an inflatable makes a great safety ama, by the bye -- its lightness makes rigging a mere 5 minute task. -- Wade

Posted 8 years ago #
KiwiBird
Member

Even a 1sqm FEKS would make a difference on the Angus rowboat.

KB

Posted 8 years ago #
Feks
Member

depending on the class rools feks can make a custom size sail for an Angus, eather with a pop up mast or a standing radial mast.

Posted 8 years ago #
StuntMan
Member

Sonar and I are in the process of getting a lightning ready to go. This is a blog I just started to track progress. http://stuntmans.blogspot.com/   This is my first attempt at a blog.

It is great to read what others have contributed above. I am a fan of that angus cruising rowboat. Wish he'd hurry up and publish the plans. Oh, and we are psyched about the new CP1! Though the old CP1 was pretty nice too.

Posted 8 years ago #
StuntMan
Member

If you click on the home at the link it should take you to the blog. Still learning on this thing!

Posted 8 years ago #
StuntMan
Member

OK - sorry, this should get to the blog if anyones interested. http://stuntmans.blogspot.com/

thanks

Posted 8 years ago #
JollyRoger
Member

Interesting mods to your lightning guys. Yes, I have been waiting for the angus crusing camper plans for over a year now so just decided to mod the expedition plans and go for it. When going solo I have room to sleep in the front pit just like theirs. Getting close now.

JollyRoger

Posted 8 years ago #
kayakman7
Member

Roger,

Are you using the Hobie Ai or Ti sail on your new build?

J

Posted 8 years ago #
Sirtackalot
Member

Getting serious about making "Big Red", 18' Sailbird trimaran "more" ready that last years EC. Changing hanked on headsail to roller furling, and adding 2nd set of reef points. Forward area of cockpit will now be enclosed with a water proof hatch. Last year we were taking on water in the forward area making us bow heavy. I think I solved the leaking centerboard control line. We discovered after last yeras race that there was not a lot of clearance between the top of the centerboard and the water line when loaded with gear, 2 adults and lots of wind/wave action. Water came through the top of centerboard and into the bilge under the hull liner. We added a tube to drain the water to cockpit. Revamped and improved drain system in cockpit. Adding waterproof storage bins to cockpit. Adding 2-3 cubic feet of flotation ( 180 lbs of flotation) to the bilge area around the centerboard area. Last year we totally submerged the boat at one point. Doing everything possible to make sure it does not happen again. Also have added access plates so we can drain bilge just in case water seeps in there with out having to stop the boat. The loose "cooler" lids with be attached with piano hinges and gaskets to make the cockpit storage area waterproof. Also planning on adding access plates to the amas so we can pump water out just in case. Working on several "paddling" systems, but hard to paddle a 500lb+ trimaran to far anyway. Lastly, making a big effort to lighten gear and bring less gear than previous years.

Posted 8 years ago #
JollyRoger
Member

J, I purchased the TI mast and sail for it. I am hoping that since it is the same size as the TI and a two seater that it does ok. I do have a AI mast and sail as welI so will try it and may take it along as a spare since it is so light and when broken down will fit under the deck. Is the Tamanu going to be ready?

Sirtackalot, Lighten gear and bring less gear is a good topic. I have brought too much gear to the EC twice now but I still have a hard time leaving equipment and goodies at home. My biggest reduction in weight has come in the food area. Sounds like you are doing good stuff to get ready from your lessons learned from last year.

JollyRoger

Posted 8 years ago #
Badger
Member

Sirtack: Did the amas filling with water lead to the semi-submergence of you boat? Consider bouyancy bags in the amas... assume they will admit water, and this will defend against losing the bouyancy you desperately need. Pumping out is fine, if you are only out for a daysail. For multi-day campaigning I'd like the security of knowing my boat won't sink. Two 46x10 bags (112lbs bouyancy apiece) in each ama ($52 at APS x 4= $208) would counter 448lbs of displacement; that would give you all you'd need.

Posted 8 years ago #
JoeWildlife
Member

My Sea Wind was built long ago, but I AM working on a low current draw 12V system for the boat. I have stick-on LED bow lights, each about the size and thickness of a quarter. I made a LED stern light that uses 3 of those bright flat LEDs in a strip. Replaced the incadescent bulb in the Ritchie deck compass with a LED. And wired up a 12V lead to the GPS. When all is on, I measured .10 amp draw (night use). The GPS alone uses about .06 amp.

If any electric geeks know this stuff, check my calculations would you?

night .1 amp * 12 hours = 1.2 Ah

day .06 amp * 12 hours = .72 Ah

Total per day approx 2 Ah used

2.4 watt solar charger * conservative 8 hours charging time generates 1.6 Ah charge per day.

Starting with a 9800mAh 12V lithium ion battery...

I figure I'm draining my battery .4 Ah per day. If it takes me 6 full days to complete the race, I'll have a 2.4 Ah deficit (charge vs. use), leaving 7.4 Ah remaining of the original 9.8Ah battery's capacity remaining.

'course I'll carry a couple 8 packs of AA batteries just in case. All connections soldered, covered in liquid electrical tape and shrink wrapped. Dielectric grease on all plugs and such.

Joe

Posted 8 years ago #
PlumbCrazy
Member

Building a boat of my own design. Twelve foot long by 42" wide with 7 foot long cabin, 24" bow and stern storage, 6 foot long self-draining cockpit (yes, I know how to add). Started building December 20th topside chines taped today. Will be equipped with a roller-lug rig of my own devising. Why a seperate cabin? That Florida sand gets everywhere and hopefully a cabin seperate from the cockpit will slow it down a bit.

Posted 8 years ago #